Pursuing Life on the Waves

Written by Dani

When it comes to books and movies, I want truth. Give me a solid biography or documentary over fiction and high-gloss Hollywood any day. So it’s only natural that word of a new documentary out this month, Surfwise, had my attention.

The film chronicles the story of Dorian “Doc” Paskowitz, a Stanford med school grad who decides to chuck it all, waving sayonara to mortgages, commutes and every other accepted staple of Western life. He packs his surfboard and hits the road in an RV, his third wife by his side, and eventually their nine children. Living by the adage, “Eat clean, live clean, surf clean”, they travel from wave to wave. Over his lifetime, Doc goes from being a distinguished doctor to the father of the “first family of surfing” all because he awoke to the realization that his idea of true living was on a surfboard rather than in a hospital ward.

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Though you might not have the bohemian drive to hit the open road in a 24-foot camper and wait till your last penny slides off the table, something still drives you to live life the way you do.

How do you pursue your own ideals of freedom and true contentment? If you’re seeking out a certain kind of life, how are you carving that out for yourself?